Pages: 1 [2] 3 4   Go Down
Print
Author Topic: Consolidated story of M151a1 6001  (Read 25116 times)
aswayze
Admin
Knows what he's talking about...
*****
Offline Offline

Posts: 5558


« Reply #15 on: January 11, 2014, 11:31:48 pm »

Tire install came and went without any real notice.   They are all four mounted and balanced nicely and it drives lovely. 

It still heats up more than I'd like on the highway and #1 cylinder is lower on compression than I think it should be.  I suspect I still have a leak or potentially a warped or cracked head.   It actually drives just fine and if I don't pinwheel it along at highway speeds the temps stay right where they should be but in all reality, there is still SOMETHING wrong. 

Besides, I really want an excuse to overhaul the A2 head so I can use unleaded gas. 


Head off, manifolds off the head.  Repairing threads on the exhausts from snapped bolts.  Start the cleaning process. 


Helicoils installed. 


Strip the valve train out of the head and clean clean clean some more. 


Now clean and dry, it's time to mask and hit it with a coat of engine paint.


Same black "depot replacement" paint scheme. 


Except the intake manifold.  It's aluminum and needs special paint.  I happen to have no black so it get's the same OD that they older A1 engine had. 


Logged
aswayze
Admin
Knows what he's talking about...
*****
Offline Offline

Posts: 5558


« Reply #16 on: April 11, 2014, 06:41:25 pm »

Finally back from East Wind and with a little space to get some work done... 

Banging away on some of the little stuff that has been a minor annoyance to me for a while: 


Antenna feed line always seems to find it's way into some pinchy spot or another.  Well past time to get that thing secured and routed such that it's got no part of it that is loose enough to get into trouble. 


The loose end, if not secured to a radio, always manages to get itself tangled up in something as well.  I added a bulkhead connector to the inside of the radio mount so that when the radio is not mounted, the line has a place to plug into just to keep it from dingling around and being a nuisance. 


We have had an LS-671 speaker mounted to the dashes of both 6001 and 6037 for a while, they were just not actually hooked up.  Just before East Wind, Stagg managed to round up the correct cables for both trucks and even mounted his cable prior to East Wind but I was indisposed during the weeks before and did not get mine mounted and tested.  Now wired up nice and tidy and working like a charm.  Having a remote handset at the front of the truck is quite handy!


I pilfered the vacuum hard lines off of the extra windshield that was originally on 6007 (it got replaced by a VERY nice spare windshield from Jason Snyder)   Got all of the lines up here plugged up, just need to figure out where everything else plugs in at while I have the power pack out later on. 


All of the last East Wind the one truck that always started was also the one truck that did not have a slave connector and was therefor unable to jump start other trucks.   Got this one physically mounted now, just need to wire in the cables. 


While we are at it...  I am just going to take care of a few other upgrade ideas that have been on the back burner for a while.  I'll add this entire system up in addition to the foot switch rather than in lieu of that way a failure here does not leave me doing the Yosemite Sam stomp.   I have reasonable faith in the 24V Marine solenoid but not absolute faith in it. 


While I was at it, I did a minor upgrade to Staggs wire cutter to keep from smacking into it when I walk past...  See, I knew those stupid teddy bear Christmas socks would come in handy for something! 
Logged
aswayze
Admin
Knows what he's talking about...
*****
Offline Offline

Posts: 5558


« Reply #17 on: April 25, 2014, 01:48:25 pm »

Popped the freeze plugs off today.


Here's what we have: 




Drivers side front plug


Drivers side rear plug


Engine block rear plug

I suspect that this may be some of the reason for heating up...

David and I just got don bonking all the crap loose and flushing the cooling jacket out with the hose for a while and things look much better in there now. 
Logged
d.thomas
Knows what he's talking about...
*****
Offline Offline

Posts: 955



« Reply #18 on: April 25, 2014, 07:15:54 pm »

radiator filled full of millet?
Logged

Dave Thomas -tamer of the ferret - keeper of ELMO
aswayze
Admin
Knows what he's talking about...
*****
Offline Offline

Posts: 5558


« Reply #19 on: April 25, 2014, 07:48:27 pm »

Doesn't seem to be, it actually appears to be pretty clear. 

It haven't taken the tanks off and glared at it or anything though. 

Logged
aswayze
Admin
Knows what he's talking about...
*****
Offline Offline

Posts: 5558


« Reply #20 on: May 12, 2014, 04:45:00 pm »

A few recent progress shots. 


Engine all cleaned up and reassembled.  Ready to be joined to the transmission and popped back into the truck.


Poof, back in the truck ready to go.

Just waiting on a few quarts of SAE 50 oil to show up for the transmission and an exhaust seal kit and we'll be back on the road. 

Logged
aswayze
Admin
Knows what he's talking about...
*****
Offline Offline

Posts: 5558


« Reply #21 on: June 24, 2014, 06:28:56 pm »

Update time, truck now runs smooth as can be no more chitty chitty bang bang.  Exhaust is sealed up well so not piffity paff exhaust leaks either. 

Still overheats...  Radiator cap sniffy tester says that there is no head gasket leak so that means that our current theory is now focused on the potentially evil radiator.   It's pretty calcified up in there so we are suspecting that we are not getting any useful flow through the thing.   When it gets hot, the top tank tends to be plenty hot as well so I am suspecting that the water is flowing fine, it is just not getting cooled like it should. 

While we had it apart, I soaked the interior of the radiator with Kaboom which broke loose an unholy horde of chips and chunks but I don't think it was enough to actually get it flowing freely.   I picked up a kind of beat up radiator from a guy on the G838 forums that had a dented tank, a collapsed overflow pipe, and the top mount broken loose on it fairly cheap.  The inside core bits (at least what I can see) do look orders of magnitude better than the one currently on there so I ran off and got some acid core solder and set to work learning how to solder on radiators.  I replaced the overflow pipe, reattached the top mount, pulled off the side plate, repaired some damage then stuck it back on.   I then gave this one the same Kaboom treatment the other one got.  Although it did break loose some stuff it was nothing like the massive flakes of junk that came out of the original radiator.  I am hoping that this one will cool a bit better.  It does have a small leak that I have yet to track down and fix but I suspect it will be an easy enough fix and should at least prove out the theory that the radiator is the issue.  If so, I am planning to just keep this one on there for now and eventually take the original radiator off to a shop and get it re-cored.

Picture time, in as much as we can still have picture time, we lost the last "real" camera and are now reduced to using phones...  Alas, tough times indeed... 


Fixing bent fins prior to coming out the radiator.   You can see the removed sides as well as the removed overflow tube.  This is not tedious at all... 


Overflow tube, top mount, side plate installed.  Radiator drying after yet another flushing session.   Not really getting any junk out of it now so we're pretty much ready to call it a success.

Logged
aswayze
Admin
Knows what he's talking about...
*****
Offline Offline

Posts: 5558


« Reply #22 on: June 30, 2014, 07:19:22 pm »

New (old) radiator went on last week.  It leaks but I figured I would at least try to prove out the theory with it. 

Again, still overheats but now only at highway speeds and does cool back down once speed is reduced.  Last radiator would pretty much get hot and stay hot till it was shut down so at least this time it did make a difference. 

Once Stagg gets back to town, we need to run to the pick n pull salvage yard to score more parts for his Latin American dictator Mercedes so I'll score some engine and transmission dipsticks to make myself some core rodding tools with and then try popping the tanks off of one of these things and see how many of the passages are plugged up.


Popped the grill off to have a lookie at a few more things. 


Did I mention that this radiator leaks?   Not worried about that right now, bigger issues to face. 


Check it again with the fart sniffer to make sure nothings changed.  (it hasn't, still no combustion gas leaks)


Then it is time to break out the big guns and hook the thermal imager up to a computer and make a video of the radiator heating up to see if we can see any obviously blocked passages. 

Steven is editing the video now, I'll post a link to it once he uploads it.  Short answer is that there appears to be semi-significant blockages in this radiator.

Logged
aswayze
Admin
Knows what he's talking about...
*****
Offline Offline

Posts: 5558


« Reply #23 on: June 30, 2014, 08:22:06 pm »

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2AafVjk-XUc&feature=em-upload_owner

Video of the thermal survey of the radiator and another quick scan of the engine. 

I cannot say that I recommend "watching" it, it's really pretty tedious but skimming from place to place gives you a good idea what all we are looking at. 

Highlights: 

Around 7:50 the thermostat opens. 

Around 9:50 the autogain starts to settle down and we can begin to see the individual passages in the radiator. 


Again at around 12:45 things settle a bit and we can get an idea where the coolant is passing.


Around 13:15 you can see me feeling spots on the radiator to see if the cooler spots are noticeable by feel.  (only slightly)

 
Around 14:00 the engine is switched off and the image gets quite fuzzy due to the heated air coming off the radiator. 

Around 15:30 we begin to have a look at other parts of the engine. 



Logged
nukeduster
Might know something...
***
Offline Offline

Posts: 153


« Reply #24 on: July 01, 2014, 07:53:54 am »

That junk that you flushed out of the block looks like engine block sealant. Might have clogged coolant passages in the engine/water pump/etc, if you've 100% ruled out HG issues with a leakdown tests.

Just because there isn't exhaust gas in the coolant that's measurable it doesn't mean the coolant isn't leaking into the oil galleys, or directly into the exhaust, etc.

This is just experience with german engines mostly, never worked on a MUTT but it can't be THAT different.
« Last Edit: July 01, 2014, 08:06:25 am by nukeduster » Logged
aswayze
Admin
Knows what he's talking about...
*****
Offline Offline

Posts: 5558


« Reply #25 on: July 01, 2014, 08:20:44 am »

I have poked all through the passages but have not yet changed the water pump itself although it does seem to be flowing water quite well.   These are a pretty open design overall once you knock the plugs out, you can basically see or feel your way through the entire thing from stem to stern without trouble.  Not a speck of any hooey left in the block now.   Head and block seem to heat up pretty evenly (see around the 15 min mark in the vid) so I don't think we have a blockage issue in the engine itself. 

I have not done a leakdown test, our leakdown tester went missing a few years back on the BTR-152 project and we have not yet replaced it. 
Logged
aswayze
Admin
Knows what he's talking about...
*****
Offline Offline

Posts: 5558


« Reply #26 on: July 01, 2014, 06:43:35 pm »



Ok Mr Extra Radiator (the one in the thermal scan film), time to take one for the team and get dissected to see it i can learnify myself on how to work on radiators some more. 



Off with your mounting hardware! 



Then slowly, carefully, I shall blast all of your solder off of the top tank and pull it off.


Mon Dieu!  Perhaps it is in fact clogged up, and to think this is the cooler running radiator! 

In the near term, I'll just tidy things up and wait till I can round up the needed poking stuff to rod it clear with.  Hopefully this will get us where we need to be on this thing.
Logged
Stagg
Global Moderator
Knows what he's talking about...
*****
Offline Offline

Posts: 1866


Plays East Wind every day!


« Reply #27 on: July 02, 2014, 06:49:44 am »

Wow. And that is the clean one.
Logged

The voices in my head may not be real, but they have some cool ideas!

Always carry two trauma kits.
One to induce trauma, and one to reduce trauma.
Coop
Knows what he's talking about...
*****
Offline Offline

Posts: 2946


We all live in a yellow UAZ...


WWW
« Reply #28 on: July 02, 2014, 08:28:36 am »

Dumb question:  Would running acid through the radiator (like you did with the gears in that one Mutt) clear the crud out?
Logged

- Куперов

OP: EW-IV - Ef. - 1SEC RTO
OP: EW-V - Jr. Lt. - XO
OP: EW-VI - Sr. Lt. - CO
OP: EW-VII - Sr. Lt. - HQ RTO
OP: EW-VIII - Capt. - Dacha in Urals
OP: EW-VIIII - Maj. - Desk in Moscow
OP: EW-VIIIII - Lt. Col. - CO Space Forces
OP: EW-VIIIIII - Marshal of the Soviet Union
aswayze
Admin
Knows what he's talking about...
*****
Offline Offline

Posts: 5558


« Reply #29 on: July 02, 2014, 10:20:34 am »

Apparently not.  This radiator in fact had had quite a bit of soaky time with the phosphoric acid.
Logged
Pages: 1 [2] 3 4   Go Up
Print
Jump to: